In Seeburg’s early amps, the MRA and HFMA series, they used several bakelite rotary switches for bass and treble tone controls, wattage, and AVC or Automatic Volume Compensation. On a recent MRA5 amp recap job I could see that the wattage switch had been broken. They all break at the same spot, there’s not much support for the thin somewhat brittle bakelite. These switches don’t grow on trees and it’s either repair them or rob one out of another amp and render the amp useless. I developed a good method of repair for these that works and is fairly easy just time consuming. I thought I would take the time to share it.

The half of the switch with five wires on it is basically floating in space so I just cut the wires going to the it one at a time and tag them as they are removed as to location. I will also make drawings; anything to help get the wires back where they belong. Of course the schematic shows clearly what goes where but with the old cloth covered wires it isn’t very easy determining wire color most of the time. Once that is done I remove the knob, unbolt the switch, and remove it. You will note in the last pictures that the stem got chewed up a bit. The knobs are held in with slotted screws in the early amps and hex head screws in the later ones. This one has a hex head and it was rusted just enough that the hex wrench I used just turned without purchase. I ended up using a Dremel tool with the cut off wheel to get the @3#* knob off. I almost went too far as part of the shaft got chewed up. Note also where the witness mark is for the hex screw. A new screw will still tighten up and securely hold the knob. I got lucky.

I mixed up a small batch of my favorite epoxy, JB Weld, and applied a tiny bit to each piece of the switch. JB Weld has never let me down. I use it for a variety of repairs. This first dab is to glue the two halves of the switch back together. When joining the two switch halves make certain the little selector tab on the round ring, seen at the middle of the five wattage taps at the top in this picture, slides in between the two contact halves. I propped this up so it was perpendicular and let it set overnight.

One more application of JB Weld this time for support. I slather it on top and bottom over the spot where it cracked and let it dry overnight. This switch was clean. Had it been dirty I would have sprayed the bakelite with contact cleaner before using the epoxy to give it the best chance at holding. As it was I used the trusty Dremel with a small wire brush and polished the two brass rings now covered with epoxy for the same reason. One only has to be careful not to get epoxy on any of the moving parts. After this has cured the switch is ready to remount in the amp, carefully desolder what’s left of the wires on the tabs and re-solder the transformer leads back on.